In this series I am going to show you how I made this universal PID temperature controller.

When assembling the Universal PID, you can choose to orient the controller horizontally vertically.

Shown here is the vertical orientation.

Shown here is the horizontal orientation.

I prefer the vertical orientation as it takes up less space.

Note that nothing keeps you from setting the unit on end even if is built in for horizontal orientation, as the orientation will not affect the operation.

Universal PID Features

• Inexpensive PID Controller

• 40 Amp Solid State Relay with heat-sink

• Master On/Off Switch

• Universal Thermocouple Jack

• Duplex 110V Receptacle

• Fuse Holder

• AC Input Jack

I prefer the 110V input jack as it allows me to keep a cord plugged in near the locations I use the controller. I simply unplug all connections and move the controller to the new location with minimal effort.

This allows me to use the controller for all kinds of projects.

Important

The default setup using the AC input jack will allow you to control resistive devices at a little over 10 Amps. I use it in this configuration to control a 1400 Watt toaster oven for powder coating.

If you want to control up to 15 Amps, Omit the AC input connector and wire a cord directly. Of course you will have to use a 15 Amp fuse in this case. The reason for this change, is that the AC input connector is rated at 10 Amps.

While you could use this connector at 15 Amps (I have without issues) I don’t recommend it. PID controllers by their very nature, allow us control things like toaster ovens or heating plates without us constantly monitor them. its not worth risking a catastrophic failure by pushing a 10 Amp connector beyond its design.

The Parts

Be sure you read the Components section as it will list option that you have. It also gives you links for all the components that I used.

Your Input

If you find something that is not clear, please let me know I and I will post additional content to help clarify the issue.